Pleated Stashbuster Bag

I don't know about you, but once I have created an item that I really enjoy, I tend to make it over and over. And while I am making that item for the 2nd, 3rd or 4th time, I am always scheming about how I could change it up or "tweak" it just a bit for a different look. That brings me to today's blog post.

Recently I shared my Stashbuster Project Bag.

You can find the pattern directions for that right here:

STASHBUSTER PROJECT BAG 

The thought occurred to me that it might be fun to finish this bag with a few modifications for a bit of a different look. So I got busy and started working on Stashbuster Bag #3.

I worked this bag exactly as I did the original Stashbuster Bag up through Round 43. For my yarn I decided to use two strands of Caron Cotton Cakes along with one strand of Loops & Threads Creme Cotton. Additionally my new bag required a pair of hinged rings for the strap (which I have yet to complete), which I was able to purchase on Amazon.

If you would like to make a stashbuster bag as well, modified to look like mine, follow the pattern directions through round 43, and then hop on back over here and continue from this point on.

At the end of round 43 you should have a total of 96 stitches in the round. Before beginning Round 44,  place a stitch marker in stitch 1 and stitch 49. Then continue on to Round 44. The green marker indicates my first stitch of the round and the orange marker indicates my 49th stitch on the opposite end.

Round 44: In this round you will create the chain spaces in which the hinged ring will go through later on.

*[SC 2, CH 2, Skip 2.

SC 4, CH 2, Skip 2.

SC 28, CH 2, Skip 2.

SC 4, CH 2, Skip 2.

SC 2] 

(Your next stitch will be in the marked 49th stitch of the round.)

REPEAT directions above from *[   ] to end. 

Round 45: SC in first stitch and each stitch around. You will also be working a sc over each chain space as well.

At the end of round 45, I completed 2 additional sc stitches and then slip stitched in the next 9 stitches to get to where I wanted to begin my flap closure.

Alternately, you could fasten off at the end of Round 45 and rejoin in the 12th stitch to begin your flap.

Here is what the top edge of your bag will look like at the end of Round 45. Each X indicates where a chain 2 space was made.  Eventually we will fold each end to line those chain spaces up in order to easily insert the hinged purse ring.

Bag Flap

Row 1: SC 26.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC 26.

Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC 2 TOG, SC 22, SC 2 TOG. (24)

Row 4: CH 1, turn. SC 24.

Row 5: CH 1, turn. SC 2 TOG, SC 20, SC 2 TOG. (22)

Row 6: CH 1, turn. SC 22.

Row 7: CH 1, turn. SC 2 TOG, SC 18, SC 2 TOG. (20)

Row 8: CH 1, turn. SC 20.

Row 9: CH 1, turn. SC 2 TOG, SC 16, SC 2 TOG. (18) 

Row 10: CH 1, turn. SC 18.

Row 11: CH 1, turn. SC 2 TOG, SC 14, SC 2 TOG. (16)

Row 12: CH 1, turn. SC 16.

Row 13: CH 1, turn. SC 2 TOG, SC 12, SC 2 TOG. (14)

Row 14: CH 1, turn. SC 14.

Row 15: CH 1, turn. SC 2 TOG, SC 4, CH 3, Skip 2 (button hole made), SC 4, SC 2 TOG.  (13)

Row 16: CH 1, turn. (SC 2 TOG)2Xs, SC 1. SC 3 in CH SP, SC 1, (SC 2 TOG)2Xs. (9)

Row 17: CH 1, turn. SC 2 TOG, SC 5, SC 2 TOG. (7)

Without fastening off, work a round of SC along the top edge of the bag. Join to the first stitch (at the end of the button flap). Fasten off, weave in ends.

Finishing:

Lay your bag on a flat surface and fold flap down to locate the front center of your bag where you will attach your barrel button. Thread a large eyed needle with a long strand of coordinating cotton and stitch button in place.

Fold each side edge in to create a "pleat" of sorts and use the CH SPs made at each side edge to help you align your folds. You will place your hinged purse ring through all 4 spaces to gather each edge together.

Although this photo does not show the finished flap, this is how you will align your chain spaces at each end.

The bag portion is now complete and it should look something like this.

Front view:

Side view:

Back view:

To finish my bag I decided to make a thermal stitch handle strap. I followed the pattern directions using this tutorial.

THERMAL STITCH HANDLE STRAP

For the sleeve I crocheted 10 rows total (90 sts/row) using HDC for one row followed by SC 3rd LOOP for the next row. Once it was big enough to go around my strap, I slip stitched the sides together for a few stitches, slid my strap through, and then continued to slip stitch the sleeve together until the end.  I wrapped each end about 20 times with a single strand before slipping it onto my hinged purse ring. I'm really excited with how this one turned out.

Stashbuster Project Bag

I wanted to start 2022 by utilizing the yarn I had immediately available to me. I had brought my hooks and some bits and ends of cotton to our sailboat in preparation of completing some smaller items while living aboard this winter season. In particular I had some Sugarwheel Cotton (Hobby Lobby) in various colors, along with a partial cake of Caron Cotton Cakes in the "peach blossom" colorway.

With a bit of excitement at starting my first project of the new year, I gathered my supplies together and got to work.

Materials needed:

Yarn remnants in various colors and fibers (I used approximately 1200 yards total for my bag.)

6.0 mm hook

Stitch marker

Barrel button

Large-eyed needle

Stitches used:

(CH) chain

(SC) single crochet

(SL ST) slip stitch

(SC2TOG)  single crochet 2 together

Notes:

-This bag is worked holding 3 strands of yarn together.

-As your bag gains height, it may become a bit floppy. This is normal.

-This bag is worked in NON-joined rounds from the base up.

Finished dimensions: 

Bag diameter = 9" across at the end of round 12

Bag height = 8" high up to the start of the handle opening

Here's how I completed my little stashbuster project bag...

Directions:

Round 1: Holding 3 strands of yarn together, make a magic circle and ch1. SC 8 sts into your circle. Place a st marker into your last st of the round, and then pull your yarn tail tight and secure to close your circle. (8)

(Alternately, you could start your base by chaining 2 and working your 8 sc sts into the second chain from hook.)

Round 2: 2SC in each st around. (16)

Round 3: *[SC1, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (24)

Round 4: *[SC2, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (32)

Round 5: *[SC3, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (40)

Round 6: *[SC4, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (48)

Round 7: *[SC5, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (56)

Round 8: *[SC6, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (64)

Round 9: *[SC7, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (72)

Round 10: *[SC8, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (80)

Round 11: *[SC9, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (88)

Round 12: *[SC10, 2SC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around. (96)

You may find that your circle may have a bit of a ruffle along the outer edge.  This may work itself out as you continue to work up the sides for height,  or if you need to, you can go up a size in hook.

Rounds 13 - 43 (or until desired height has been reached): SC in each st around,  moving stitch marker up as you complete each round. I worked mine until it was 8" high from the last round of the base.

Round 44: Work a SC in the next 16 sts. CH24(for handle strap), skip 16 sts. SC in each of next 32 sts. CH24 (for second handle strap), skip 16 sts. SC in each of remaining 16 sts to end of round. (112)

Rounds 45 - 48: SC in each st around. When you have completed your last round, complete 2 or 3 sl sts to "even out" the round, then pull your working loop(s) under the V of the next st to the inside of your work. Fasten off, leaving a 4-5" tail, thread it through your working loop, pull to secure and weave in ends.

Button flap: You will work your button flap in the 8 center stitches below one of the two handle straps.

Row 1: Locate the 8 center sts below handle strap and rejoin yarn. SC in each of the 8 sts. 

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each st across.

Rows 3 - 11: Repeat row 2.

Row 12: SC2TOG, SC. CH3, SK2 (button hole made). SC, SC2TOG.

Row 13: SC2TOG, 3SC in ch space, SC2TOG. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Sew button to front of bag center.

Enjoy your new project bag!

Please consider sharing your stashbusting project bag with me in my Facebook group. Purdy Sweet Crochet

MOSAIC TRAVEL POUCH

Happy New Year!

My husband and I are spending the 2021-22 winter season on our sailboat in south eastern Florida. Because our sailboat is only so big, with limited storage, I had to be selective about how much yarn and crafting supplies I could bring. With one exception (that I will share with you at a later date) I am trying to keep my projects relatively small this season for that very reason.

Today's post is to share how I made a beautiful and functional mosaic travel pouch for another boating friend as a way of saying thank you.

Materials I used:

265 yards cotton Sample made using Caron Cotton Cakes (60% cotton, 40% acrylic) in the colorway "Peach Blossom"

4.0 mm hook

8" X 10" Pre-made zippered canvas pouch It is important to have this before you start in order to get an accurate sizing for your crocheted pouch sleeve. I purchased my pouch from Michaels Crafts. They can also be purchased on Amazon, or if you are handy with a sewing machine you can make your own to fit your sleeve after it is completed.

Stitch markers (optional)

Needle and thread for hand stitching mosaic sleeve to your pouch

Scissors

Decorative button (optional)

Stitches/Abbreviations used:

(Ch) chain

(SC) single crochet (always worked in the back loop unless noted)

(DC) double crochet (drop down DC refers to working your st in the corresponding front loop of the st  2 rounds below)

(SL ST) slip stitch

(blo) back loop only

(flo) front loop only

My cake was large sized and contained a total of 530 yards of self striping yarn. The color changes were much longer than I needed, so I separated and rewound each color into small balls in order to better manipulate where the colors would change. This meant working with multiple color strands. If your yarn is self-striping, with shorter color changes, you could simply work your pouch sleeve with a single strand without cutting or adding any yarn.

I decided to work my color sequence in this order: light blue, green, yellow, peach. 

Foundation Chain and Row 1:

I lay my pre-made pouch out on a flat surface and beginning with the light blue, I created a starting chain that was long enough to comfortably fit all the way around the base of my pouch without being too snug. I left a LONG tail at the start to use for seaming the base together later. You could make a shorter chain to the length of the base and work in the round along both sides of the chain, but I find it easier to work mosaic in a "tube" and seam later. Keep in mind that once you begin your first sc round, it will tighten up just a bit. My chain was 91 stitches long. Starting in the second chain from hook, work a sc in each st to the end.  Join your last st to the first sc st of the row using slip st in order to form a loop.  I find it easier to join after completing my first row of sc in order to prevent twisting. You can use your starting tail to seam up that little gap between the starting ch and where you joined the sc round now, or later, before seaming the base.

After joining your first round of sc to form a "loop," ch1, sc into back loop of the first st and remaining 89 sts. It is very helpful if you place a stitch marker into the first stitch to help keep track. Keep in mind that the ch1 does not count as a stitch, but you will join each round with a slip st to the ch1 and pull your yarn tight to hide the seam. If you are changing colors, you will need to join your round with a sl st into the ch1 with your new yarn color, then before working your first sc st, you will ch1 and pull your old color very tight to help hide the join.

Rounds 2 and 3: 

I worked two more rounds of sc in the back loop only using the light blue color before adding the green. At the end of round 3, I joined my new color (green) by slip stitching to the ch1, then ch 1.

Note: If you are working with more than one color, you can easily carry them up the inside of your tube. After you join your new color with a slip st, work your ch1 around all strands of yarn to "carry them along" the inside. 

Round 4: With green, SC back loop only into first st. For the next st, work a dropped DC into the front loop of the corresponding stitch two rows below. It will appear as though you are leaving the sc st in the row below unworked, but this is how it is supposed to look. *[SC (blo) in next st, dropped DC in next st.] Repeat from * around to the last st. Join new color (yellow) with a slip st, Ch 1. (90) 

Round 5: With yellow, drop down DC into the front loop only of the first st which corresponds two rows below. In the next st, SC (blo). *[Drop down DC in next st, SC (blo) in next st,] Repeat from *[  ] around to the last st. Join new color (peach) with a slip st, Ch 1. (90)

Round 6: With peach, SC back loop only into first st. For the next st, work a dropped DC into the front loop of the corresponding stitch two rows below. *[SC (blo) in next st, dropped DC in next st.] Repeat from *[  ] around to the last st. Join new color (light blue) with a slip st, Ch 1. (90)

Round 7: With light blue, drop down DC into the front loop only of the first st which corresponds two rows below. In the next st, SC (blo). *[Drop down DC in next st, SC (blo) in next st,] Repeat from *[  ] around to the last st. Join new color (green) with a slip st, Ch 1. (90)

For my mosaic pouch, I repeated rounds 4 - 7 seven more times, until I reached my desired height. When I worked a color for the last time, I cut the strand and worked over the tail end in the next round. I completed mine with one additional round of sc in the light blue, working under both loops for this last round before finishing off and weaving in my end. 

Finishing up:

Turn your pouch wrong side out. If you haven't already done so, be sure to stitch the gap between the starting ch and the first round of sc. Then, thread your long starting tail into a needle and use the mattress stitch to seam up the base. Turn right side out.

Photo below shows what my base looked like after seaming with mattress stitch.

Before sewing the crocheted sleeve to the canvas pouch, I added a personalized button near the top edge for a little decoration. 

Insert your zippered canvas pouch into the crocheted mosaic sleeve. Using needle and thread, hand stitch the crocheted sleeve to the canvas. Be careful to sew the top edge of your crocheted stitches in such a way that they are not caught in the zipper when you open or close your pouch. 

Photo below shows how I am checking to see how my sleeve is fitting over the pouch.  I am about 1/3 done in this photo.

It's getting there!

When joining the crocheted sleeve to the canvas pouch, I was careful to insert my needle up through the seam of the canvas and zipper. This kept the top edge of my crochet nice and neat and unable to get caught in the zipper when using.

Here is Lisa, enjoying her new gift. I am so happy she loves it!

For more crochet inspiration, please consider joining my Facebook group.

PURDY SWEET CROCHET